GL1000 / GL1100
If you have the crankshaft at T1, looking through the timing plug hole on the crankcase, start by turning the crank back by about a 1/4 turn (this is so you don't tangle valves and pistons as you are moving the cams.)
Slacken all the tappet adjusters right out.
Right hand cam wheel has the centre boss long side out, left hand has the long side in. Mount them on the cams.. Turn each can so that the arrow on each is pointing outward at the marks on the rear belt covers.
Turn crank back to T1
Fit left hand belt. You need to get your eyes directly in line with the arrow and mark.
Allow left hand tensioner to take up slack and tighten bolt.
Recheck you are still on T1
Slip R/H belt around 12mm wrench on right pulley bolt. You will find that, even with the tappet adjusters right out, the cam will still want to turn slightly under spring pressure. Get the cam wheel in the right position and lash the wrench to the frame with tiewraps.
Fit belt and set tensioner.
Remove wrench and gently turn the engine over by hand several revs. If you encounter any resistance at all, stop and reverse back to where you were and re-check everything.
If everything feels smooth, bring back to T1, slacken left tensioner, put slight pressure on top run of belt with the wrench, just enough to take up any slack, and let the tensioner find correct position. Do Not 'Help' Tensioner. Tighten bolts.
Turn engine to T2 and repeat for the right hand belt.
The 1200 cam wheels have two marks on one side of them, as fitted to the right hand cam. The reason being that these wheels are also used in the Honda Accords from the same years, which have different timing. The other side of the wheel only has one. Check the picture below. All other above information is the same. Using the wrong mark will have the valves kissing the pistons!
PARTS AND ADVICE FOR YOUR 'OLDEN GOLDIE'
An online source dedicated to Honda's amazing four cylinder Goldwings!
Fitting Cam Wheels and Timing Belts
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J G Evans