removing the clutch centre nut (all models)

Many people doing clutch work have found difficulty when it comes to removing the centre nut on our Honda Goldwings. If you tackle it this way, you'll wonder what the fuss was all about.

This is applicable to Honda Goldwing GL1000, GL1100 and the GL1200, although that model requires a different step(5) due to the use of a diaphram spring instead of the coils springs

1) remove the clutch lever cover

2) Slacken the cable adjusters right off and remove the cable from the lever

3) Remove the clutch cover

4) Slowly and evenly using a diagonal technique undo the six bolts that hold the clutch pressure release plate. If you are not careful with this the pressure release plate can crack! Do the same when replacing the plate!

5) Put back three of the springs then, using some large repair type washers under them, put the bolts back on those three. Tighten them down. (They don't have to be tightened right up, finger tight to the spring carrier will do). As you will note, I used some flanged nuts which were perfect for the job.

The GL1200 requires a different step(5) due to the use of a diaphram srping instead of the coils springs. Here you will have to use three equal lengths of tube over the spring bolt pillars, long enough so that they are roughly 1/4" - 6mm higher than the pillars, so that when you tighten the bolts down they compress the diaphram spring which is at the back of the clutch drum.

6) bend the locking tab of the centre nut lock washer back.

7) If the engine is still in the frame, put the bike in 1st gear and have someone stand on the rear brake, or tie the lever down somehow.
If it's out of the frame, use a spanner on the crankshaft timing pulley bolt.

Some folk advocate using the alternator rotor bolt, but IMHO there is too much danger of slacking that bolt off. If the rotor gets loose it will destroy the splines on it's shaft in very short order and probably the stator as well!

8) Undo the centre nut. Please, please use the correct clutch nut tool for this. They are not dear; about the same price as the screwdriver you were going to ruin by hammering the nut off! :)
You may be able to use an impact tool to shock it loose if the engine is on the bench.

If the engine is in the frame, remove the bolts and springs and then the plates.

If the engine is on the bench the whole plate pack can be lifted out as a unit if you leave the springs and nuts in place.

10) when rebuilding, just reverse the procedure. Use a new locking washer, don't forget the Belville washer which goes in with the convex surface towards the nut and the spirals on the friction plates go anti-clockwise as you look at the clutch.

11) Lastly, the housekeeping. Make sure you clean out any old clutch material from the bottom of the cases around the scavenge pump.

This tip will be essential when you come to fit one of our oil pump chains (coming soon).

And if you are doing that it would be sensible to change the starter chain to one of ours as well since you will already have the rear casing off. (also coming soon)